ACCESS CARD:
A plastic card is a card received with all satellite receivers. The access card is registered to the receiver and can not be used in any other receiver. It gives the service provider the information necessary to provide the subscribed programming; it is also used for Pay per View billing.
ALIGNEMENT:
The azimuth is the east to west alignment of the dish.
ELEVATION:
Elevation is the vertical angle of the dish from the horizon. The dish must have a clear unobstructed view of the satellites and the coordinates vary depending on your location. Determine where to point your dish.
COAXIAL CABLE:
RG-6 Coaxial cable is required to bring the signal from the dish to the receivers. It also handles the low voltage to power the LNB.
DBS – DIRECT BROADCAST SATELLITE:
The term used for satellites that broadcast directly to your home satellite dish.
DIGITAL COMPRESSION:
The satellite signal is sent in a compressed digital format used to allow more channels and more audio video options.
DVR:
Digital Video Recorder.
EPG:
The Electronic Program Guide or EPG displays all available programming. You can easily create your own custom guides.
FOOTPRINT:
A footprint is where the signal transmitted from a satellite is able to reach with an acceptable signal.
FTA:
FTA is an acronym meaning free to air.
GEOSTATIONARY:
The satellites are in a geosynchronous orbit, 22,300 miles above the equator. This means the satellites stay in the same place and orbit with the earth.
IKS:
Internet Key Sharing
LNBF:
LNBF stands for Low Noise amplifier, Block Converter, Feed Horn, and is commonly referred to as the LNB and is located in front of the satellite dish.
The LNB is catches the high frequency satellite signals reflected from the dish. The high frequency is down converted to a lower frequency and sent to the receiver(s) via RG-6 coax cable.
OTA:
Over the air. See our OTA Equipment Section
PVR:
Personal Video Recorder.
RECEIVER:
The receiver is also referred to as a tuner. It is the “box” directly connected to your television. It receives the signal from the LNB on the dish and allows you to view programming.
R/F COAX CONNECTORS:
Also called R/F connectors. The R/F connectors are attached to the end of coax cable to allow you to connect the cable to the receiver, LNB and other devices. See how-to video.
RG59 COAX CABLE:
A low cost coaxial cable used in many homes prewired for cable. It can be used to connect the output of a receiver to other rooms, but it shouldn’t be used to connect the LNB to a receiver.
RG6 COAX CABLE:
Is a high grade coax cable that should be used to connect the LNB to the receiver and where ever possible. The center conductor is larger in diameter, which is needed to carry the DC voltage from the receiver to power the LNB.
SATELLITE DISH:
The dish is parabolic reflector used to receive or transmit radio, television or data
SWITCHES:
There are several types of switches that can be used to connect a second dish and LNB and/or multiple receivers. Switches look like splitters with multiple inputs and outputs.
SPOT BEAM:
Is a satellite transmission that is focused on a specific area within the footprint of the satellite. Spot beams are used to control the local Networks so they can only be received within a few hundred miles of your home.
TRANSPONDER:
A transponder is defined as a wireless communications, monitoring, or control device that picks up and automatically responds to an incoming signal.
UHF REMOTE:
Ultra High Frequency remote control that allows you to control the receiver from another room.

To make suggestions or any corrections please leave a comment below.

Different types of fixed dishes;
The dishes can be divided in to two basic groups, single LNB dish and multi LNB dish.
The single LNB dish is a round or vertical oval dish that is non-skewing (non-tilting).
The multi LNB dish is an oval dish with more than one LNB and it is a SKEWING (tilting) dish.

Skewing:
This is the dish being able to rotate on its center axis (similar to the steering wheel of a car) to track multi-satellites. If you could see the satellites in the sky, they would appear in an arch, like a rainbow. Skewing is necessary to tilt (align) the LNB’s to match the satellites in the rainbow arch. If the satellites are at the top of the arch, not much skew (tilt) is required. However if you follow the arch down with the dish you would have to rotate the LNB or dish to keep the 2 noses of the LNB aligned with the arch and satellites. To determine the amount of skew for YOUR location you must use a multi-satellite aiming site such as Dishpointer.com.

“Poormans” dual (LNB) dish:
These are 18 to 24 inch non-skewing dishes that have been user modified to add a second LNB for reception of a second bird. They work well with certain restrictions, as follows, the skew for your location and satellite selection should not exceed +/- 5 degrees (Skew range between 85 to 95 degrees, a non skewing dish is considered to be at 90 degrees), and the positional span of the two satellites should be less than 10 degrees, it will usually work for 119/110 (119 – 110, span = 9 degrees) or 91/82 ( 91 – 82, span = 9 Degrees). The above angle restrictions are recommended as if you exceed them, the position that you would have to mount the second LNB at would not get a good reflective signal and you will loose signal strength. Note: There are after market LNB “Holders” sold, that claim larger spans, but they don’t tell you about the signal loss, and that they should be used on a skewing dish, use at your own risk.

Signal to LNB reversing;
If you are in the northern hemisphere (Canada & USA) and look to the southern sky, the easterly satellites have lower positional numbers, and the west satellites have higher positional numbers (110 would be left of 119). However when working with a multi-LNB dish, standing behind the dish with the post in your ****y, looking at the white nose of the LNB, the “most” right LNB will be the most EAST satellite and lower positional number, and the most left LNB will be the most WEST and higher positional number. The signal beams reflect and cross (reverse) on the dish. This can be very confusing, as I have seen many make the mistake of using the incorrect right LNB on the highest satellite or left on the lowest, this will work for ONE satellite, and you can spend many hours trying to find the other satellite on 2 LNB dishes. A simple test is from behind the dish (pole in your ****y), reach UNDER the dish and put your 2 fingers over the front of one of the white hockey puck noses of the LNB’s and watch the receiver signal. The signal will drop if you are covering the LNB that the receiver is using.

“Y” and Multi-LNB adaptors:
These adaptors are available at satellite stores and secondary markets and are designed to be used with skewing dishes. The further that the LNB is away from the focal point (center) of the dish the greater the signal loss. You can use these with non-skewing dishes IF there is no slew required . You to use MUST shorten the LNB arm so the measured distance from the nose of the LNB to the center of the dish remains the same as original. These adaptors need to be researched prior to purchase to see if they will work in YOUR location for the desired satellites, as you will loose signal strenth as the LNB gets moved from center (focal point) of dish. I do not recommend these, if you must use this type of multi-LNB holder, I would use the very adjustable “Erector set” (bars and clamps) type LNB holders.

Dish mounting:
Most 18 to 24 inch dishes come with a “universal” mounting arm, for mounting to dwellings etc. For post mounting, a standard 1 5/8 inch chain link fence post works well, is low cost, comes in various lengths (5 to 11 ft.) and is commonly available at fencing or hardware stores. Any dish installation, (universal or post mount) should be solid and most important, LEVEL on all planes, this means put a bubble (AKA Spirit) level on all 4 sides of the mounting post, the bubble MUST be in the middle, as the dish will rotate on this post, and you will be trying to find a satellite the size of a car at 22,000 mile away.

22-degree signal offset:
This is very important to you if you are surveying a prospective dish site. The dishes are manufactured with a 22-degree signal offset. This means if you put the face of the dish vertical (90 degrees to the horizon), the signal would be coming in at 22 degrees above the horizon. I have seen dishes on a dwellings, mounted on the lower edge of a roof and the dish appears to be aimed into the roof but because of the 22 deg offset, was shooting over the peak of the roof. A simple way to see if you can get a clear signal is to use a “inclinometer” (AKA “Angle Locator”), a flashlight or a laser pointer, look up the elevation and azmuth on a satellite aiming site. Find the Azmuth using a compass, add (or subtract, depends on the angle finders scale) the 22 degrees to the elevation reading. Hold the flashlight or a laser pointer on the measuring side of the “inclinometer”. Sweep the Azmuth while maintaining the angle to see if it hits ANY obstructions.

Elevation setting on the dish:
I have found that the “elevation” scale that is stamped into the dish is not always accurate. My experience is that +/- 5 degrees is not uncommon. So when you get the elevation setting from a satellite aiming site on a new install, start at the specified elevation and S-L-O-W-L-Y sweep in the satellites direction, can’t find, change the elevation 2 degrees and re-sweep, repeat until found.
You can also accurately set the elevation on the dish by the following procedure, look up the elevation angle for your location on a satellite-aiming site (For example we will use 50 degrees). Take the 50 degrees and subtract the 22 degrees offset and you get 28 degrees. Put a straight edge from the center of the LNB arm to the center of the top of the dish edge, with the straight edge touching only the dish edge. Using an “inclinometer” (AKA “Angle Locator”) set the angle for 28 degrees (some inclinometers have a indicating scale that you may have to take 90 degrees and subtract the 28 degrees and set for 62 degrees).

Toroidial Dishes:
These are not provider-supplied dishes, but are specialized dual reflector dishes that have a larger satellite positional span. They work well but are difficult to setup and require special “Reversed” LNB’s for Circular reception. Not recommended for newbies.

Motorized Dishes;
These are usually larger dishes that are 30 inch or larger (for linear signal reception) and have a positioning motor that is controlled by the receiver. When properly setup, the motorized dish with a linear and a circular LNB you can receive any satellite it can see and the receiver can decode. There are special single LNBs that can receive both Circular and linear signals such as the Invacom QL series LNB. The motorized dish also has its drawbacks. They are complex to install and properly setup. They are slow when channel surfing and the motor has to switch satellites, (it takes about 10 seconds to change from 119 to 110) and to run more than 1 receiver is difficult as both receivers must be watching channels on the same satellite.

Recommendations for Newbies;
Circular satellites – Start with a single LNB dish, or for future expansion, a dual skewing LNB dish (a “Dish 500 is recommended) with 2 each SINGLE Legacy LNB’s with dual output. To start, use one LNB connected directly to the receiver without switches. Get 1 satellite going, and then expand to the second, ALWAYS hook direct the Receiver to LNB (no switch), aim and peak, once all dishes are OK, then add the switch.
Linear satellites, a single 30 to 32 inch dish with a single linear LNB.

Diseqc Switch CAUTION:
Diseqc switchs, MUST be treated with kid gloves! They are physically rugged but electrically delicate. These switches are solid state, and can be easley damaged. The most common way the switch is damaged is to make or break ANY connected dish cable connection with the receiver pluged in to power. The receiver puts power out of its LNB connection (and through the switch to the LNB), even if the receiver is turned off by the I/R remote or front power button! YOU MUST REMOVE POWER by unpluging or using the REAR power switch. I know it is a pain in the A** when you are on the roof with your satellite finder, have to peak the dish, and have to turn the power on/off to install/remove the satellite finder.

PN

Jan. 28/09

Double check each point on this list before posting troubles. If one this check list does not resolve the problem, at least you will have narrowed this down for the person helping you. This lists only the most common issues that we see here, but will help to narrow down problems if further assistance is required.

1. Reboot the receiver from the back of the unit.

2. Make sure you have the latest file installed on your receiver. If necessary download the file again, and re-install the file. Always remember to unzip the file before installation.

3. Make sure Auto-TP and Auto-roll are turned on.

4. Make sure the LNB power is switched on for each satellite you wish to receive.

5. Make sure you have selected the proper LNB type.

6. Check the Diseqc port settings, and make sure that the port selected is connected to the LNB for the satellite you are trying to receive, and the LNB is in the correct position on the dish. Some receivers have auto LNB setting detection. Use this if available. If not, you may need to go out to the dish, and trace the wiring for each LNB to the switch. Mark these down, and set your receiver accordingly. Keep for future reference.

7. Make sure you select the proper LNB Frequency. It should automatically insert the correct frequency when selecting the LNB type, but verify that it is correct.

8. Make sure you select the proper transponder for checking quality strength. 12224 is the default for 110,
91, 82, and for 119 west, it needs to be set to 12239.

9. If using one of the SW series switches, make sure you have the correct dish setting.

10. Check to see if the intended Satellite is locking in. You should see the Satellite name and co-ordinates appear twice on the antenna/installation screen. EG. Echo* 7 [119 west] should appear in the drop down satellite menu, then again somewhere on the screen…often in the top right hand corner or at the bottom of the screen. Different for some receivers. Also, if you are getting quality and are able to scan channels, but are still not getting the ones you’re looking for; make sure that you are locked in on the satellite you have selected for viewing. You could have selected on sat, but locking in on another.

11. Signal. This is the measurement of connectivity between the receiver and the LNB. If you are having troubles with a low signal, it is likely a hardware issue. Double check that all connections are tight and free from water penetration. Remove each connection point right back to the dish, and make sure they are dry and clean, then tighten them down. There could also be a problem with the switch. If you suspect troubles with it, use a barrel connector and connect each LNB separately, to see if this fixes the problem. If it does, replace the switch, and reconnect the cables. The LNB may also be defective. You could check another LNB to verify. Replace if required.




12. Quality. This is the measurement of the transmission between the LNB and the Satellite. If the quality reading is low, you will see poor picture quality, pixilation, or not receive any channels at all, especially in poor weather. If you have checked all of the above settings, and you still have zero or low quality levels, it is likely that your dish either marginally off position, or is not pointed correctly at the required satellite. There is also the possibility of a defective switch. As above, if you suspect troubles with the switch, use a barrel connector and connect each LNB separately, to see if this fixes the problem. If it does, replace the switch, and reconnect the cables. The LNB may also be defective. You could check another LNB to verify. Replace if required.

13. When first setting up a dish always bypass any switches and connect directly to the receiver. This eliminates the possibility of a bad switch/incorrect settings and can help with troubleshooting.

Good luck and happy testing

PN

Jan. 28/09

The problem with FTA birds is that you will see signal and quality on all DBS satellites. 61.5, 82, 91, 110, 119, 148….all of these operate on the same frequency, so when you are aiming at one of them, and you find another, you will see a quality signal. Of course, if you are aimed at the wrong bird, all you will get is “scrambled or bad channel” or a bunch of “ghost channels” and duplicates.

So, here is what I do to avoid confusing the birds…

1. Flash your receiver with the latest bin.

2. Load a channel list with the sats you will be trying to get. I always do this because it helps with the aiming technique later. If you prefer scanning, after you find the birds, you can delete all your channels and scan away. BUT…load up a channel list in the beginning.

3. Set the default key just in case it doesn’t set automatically.

4. Connect ONE LNB at a time. Do NOT use your switch yet. Run a cable directly from ONE LNB to your receiver.

5. In the menu, make sure all your diseqc settings are at OFF.

6. Now, pick the sat you are going to aim at. Connect this cable directly to the receiver, and tune to a channel on this sat. Example: trying to hit BEV 91?…tune to TSN. By doing this, the correct tp will be picked automatically. Again, no confusion! Some tps may not have anything on them, and so if you have your receiver set to a blank tp, then you will never find signal, even if you find the bird!! That’s another reason why this method is easiest (I think).

7. Use a satfinder program to get your coordinates. 

8. Go and move your dish SLOWLY. When a picture appears, then you know you have found the correct bird. If you hit a different DBS bird, then you will not get a picture….so no confusion. Once you get a picture, then use the receiver’s signal meter to fine tune the signal.

9. Move onto the next sat. Connect it directly, and follow the above directions. Do one sat/LNB at a time until all the sats have been found.

10. Incorporate your switch, and adjust your diseqc settings in the menu accordingly.

11. Enjoy TV…

PN

Jan. 28/09

Does it matter which satellite goes on which port?

No there is no proven advantage of having specific satellites on specific ports. The important thing is that you select the correct diseqc port with the satellite on the installation menu on your receiver.

When I connect my LNB directly to the receiver it works fine but after connecting it to the Diseqc switch I lost my signal and quality?

I am not sure which Multi-Switch to get?